In this article, I will share my personal experiences of life and everyday life on Lake Maggiore – from weather and lifestyle to costs, real estate prices and life with a dog – personal, honest and non-commercial!
What is life like on Lake Maggiore? What is everyday life in Italy like for non-Italians? How much does it cost to live on Lake Maggiore? What is winter really like on Lake Maggiore? What is it like for Germans on Lake Maggiore? What is it like with a dog on Lake Maggiore?
We asked ourselves all these questions before we looked at the region as a possible second home or even as our main residence.
You can find more information about real estate here and recommendations for restaurants and nice cafés can be found here.
Let’s start with the most important thing! What is the weather really like on Lake Maggiore? Above all, what is the weather like in winter?
The weather on Lake Maggiore is more changeable than you might imagine and the weather apps seem less reliable than elsewhere. If the forecast is for 80% chance of rain in 3 days, it could be cloudless tomorrow!
From November to February, temperatures never actually drop below zero degrees, but it can rain from time to time. However, the rain usually only lasts for a short time. It very rarely rains for several days straight here – but it does happen. On the other hand, the sun often comes out in the winter months and with the right jacket you can enjoy your coffee outside. In fact, all restaurants and cafés leave their chairs outside during the winter so that they can be used at any time during the hours of sunshine.
The best months for me are March to June and September and October. On average, the weather is much better in these months than in rainy northern Germany, where we have our main residence. During these months, you have lots of nice warm days at the lake and if it does rain, it’s usually only short showers.
I live on the eastern shore and it feels like the western shore is shrouded in clouds more often than our side. But that may be a subjective impression.
We avoid the lake in July and August. It can get really hot for many days, often with temperatures well above 30 degrees. And in these months, the Italians are on summer vacation, travel to the lake themselves and then restaurants, bars and streets are simply far too crowded for us. Even the few small public access points to the lake, which are mostly stony and rocky, are then overcrowded and you can hardly find a free berth on the few beaches.
Our conclusion: the sun doesn’t always shine, but it’s never far away!
What do we like better here than in northern Germany?
Life in Italy as a foreigner is easy! However, there is not much of the famous dolce far niente here on the “lean shore of the lake” (as the eastern shore is called) and that is exactly what we like: the people are more open, more relaxed, not so mouthy (as I said: I compare with northern Germany!), livelier and in a better mood than here, but they don’t sit in a café all day doing nothing, as some prejudices claim.
But they can always find time for a small caffè or an aperitivo, whether it’s between two business appointments or on the way home after work – there’s always time! At peak times, the small bars, where an espresso rarely costs more than one or two euros, can get very crowded and noisy with strangers discussing the weather as if it were a matter of world peace. And the long lunch break is also sacred. No matter how far away from home our craftsmen were, they all went home for lunch.
Italians are family people and eating together at the weekend, often in a restaurant, is a tradition, including the distant aunt who can barely walk but is picked up every Sunday by her nephew who has just got his driving license. And then it gets loud! Really loud! I like to sit at the next table and listen and try to pick up and understand bits and pieces.
However, my tolerance level is exceeded when, in the summer months, the extended family gets together in the neighboring house and regularly plays fun games and populates the pool until two in the morning. Another reason why we don’t show our faces here in July and August.
What we really enjoy here is the gastronomic offer and, above all, the price-performance ratio. As I said, I’m mainly talking about the Lombardy side of the lake. Over in Piedmont, everything is a little fancier, more sophisticated – and more expensive. So we go to our favorite pizzeria here several times a week, where no pizza costs more than 14 euros, or to the upscale restaurant on the lake with fish specialties, where the main course costs around 20 euros. The service is always very good and friendly, even in the more touristy restaurants.
You can find my tips for restaurants and cafés here.
We were pleasantly surprised at how friendly we were served everywhere in the stores and restaurants, even though we are foreigners and don’t speak Italian well.
You can find my recommendations for “Shops with soul” here.
Most people are patient and react particularly positively if you try to speak Italian. And you should also be able to speak a little Italian at some point, as English or even German is not usually spoken away from the tourist highlights.
And when they do, it’s not always easy to understand. Here’s a little tip for a very funny one, because it fits, IG account from lau_ramoso. Super funny.
Tips for learning Italian on Lake Maggiore
As dog owners, we particularly like how dog-friendly the Italians are here and that you can actually bring a well-behaved dog into any restaurant. In Italy, dogs must ALWAYS be kept on a lead, except in designated dog playgrounds. And all dog waste is ALWAYS removed. This ensures that nobody notices the many dogs here and that non-dog owners are extremely tolerant and friendly.
The biggest store for everything to do with your darling can be found in Besozzo: L’Isola dei Tesori
Food
Daily shopping in one of the large supermarkets, Tigros, Carrefour, DPiu, Lidl, Aldi… costs about the same here as in northern Germany. Good meat from a good butcher (macelleria) is more expensive here.
Tools & Co.
Tools, machines, vehicles, building materials, household appliances, garden products etc. are approx. 10-15% more expensive here than in Germany, not only because of the higher VAT rate, which is why we make large purchases in Germany and then take them here with us (note: carry proof of purchase with you when you travel through Switzerland!).
Clothing
There are a few very good boutiques and clothing stores here with very reasonable prices.
Craftsmen and services
Craftsmen and services tend to be somewhat cheaper here than in Germany, and this also applies to architects, notaries, etc. However, as in Germany, the quality of work varies greatly.
I have put together a few recommendations for very good, reliable tradespeople for you here.
I would say that real estate prices here are at a similar level to those in Germany. A ready-to-occupy, large villa on the lake costs 3-5 million, a small cottage in the mountains 250,000 – somewhere in between. The Piedmont side tends to be slightly more expensive than the eastern shore. Once you have found your dream property, you can make a counter-offer to the asking price. You shouldn’t have any inhibitions and you should go a bit low, but of course remain serious and fair.
Of course, a lot depends on whether you speak Italian – or at least try to – or can only communicate in English or German. But there are MANY opportunities to make contacts because Italians are simply super open-minded, especially if you try to speak their language. The first thing we did was to ask anyone who showed up around our house who wasn’t three years old if they lived in the area and if so, we introduced ourselves as the new neighbors and invited them over for a caffè or a beer. So the first purchase in your new home should be a decent coffee machine that meets Italian standards!
At the next meeting, it’s okay to stop and make a little small talk. That’s expected and you have to have that much time!
Many towns have a “Pro Loco”, a neighborhood association that takes care of events in the community. For a small membership fee, you can join and receive regular information about events. Voluntary work is of course also welcome here. My friend and Italian teacher volunteered to serve champagne at a vernissage and gave me a great opportunity to practise my rudimentary Italian. And then you’re invited to a “helper’s lunch” and get to meet other nice people – if you manage to join in the loud, fast-paced conversation in Italian…
As a dog owner, it’s usually no problem to make new friends anyway. The official dog playgrounds are ideal for this.
There are sporting or cultural events in every town where you can also make new contacts. No Italian will look funny if you sit next to them and simply speak to them. However, you should of course first check your foreign language skills before simply chattering away in English or German. If you don’t speak English or German, I’ve sometimes made progress with French.
Many Germans have settled in our neighborhood and they also seem to be much more open-minded here than back in good old Germany. Whenever I saw movement at a house, I simply stuck a note on the door: “Fancy a beer? We’re here.” Then directions and that was it. It ALWAYS worked and now we have a great neighborhood WhatsApp group, keep each other informed about news, arrange to meet up and look after each other’s houses if someone is away for a while.
However, making contacts is easy if you make a little effort and dare to get out of your skin!
Life on Lake Maggiore is more relaxed than in Germany, but by no means sluggish. People are more open, more communicative and take time for coffee, food and conversation - without being unproductive. On the Lombardy side in particular, everyday life is lively, warm and much less distant than in northern Germany.
Winter on Lake Maggiore is more changeable than many expect, but temperatures rarely fall below zero degrees. Periods of rain are usually short and the sun often shines in between. Many cafés and restaurants leave their outdoor seating open even in winter - with the right jacket, you can often enjoy your coffee outside.
The cost of living on Lake Maggiore is comparable to northern Germany in many areas. Food in the supermarket costs a similar amount, services and tradesmen are sometimes cheaper. However, tools, building materials and larger purchases are more expensive, mainly due to the higher VAT.
Lake Maggiore is very dog-friendly. Well-behaved dogs are allowed in almost all restaurants. Although dogs must be kept on a leash, their droppings are consistently removed. This ensures a relaxed atmosphere between dog and non-dog owners.
Yes, there are many Germans living on Lake Maggiore. It's easy to make friends if you are open, allow small talk and at least try to speak Italian. Neighborhoods, dog playgrounds, local associations ("Pro Loco") and joint activities offer many opportunities to make contacts quickly.
In Italy, dogs must always be kept on a lead. Dogs are only allowed to run free in fenced, specially designated dog playgrounds.

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